"The electrician told me the short circuit came from a cable that had been gnawed through in the loft. I called my insurer and was told it wasn't covered." That kind of conversation comes up again and again in the houses of the Val-de-Marne, usually between October and February, when rodents move in for the winter and the bills start arriving: blown insulation to be redone, consumer unit to be rewired, mechanical ventilation ducting punctured, a car off the road because a mouse has cut a wiring harness under the bonnet.
The insurer's answer isn't necessarily a final refusal. Rodent damage is rarely covered "as such", but its consequences sometimes are — and that makes all the difference. Nibbled insulation falls under wear and tear and maintenance; a fire started by a gnawed cable falls under fire cover. In between the two lies a grey area where everything depends on your policy, on how the exclusions are worded, and above all on the quality of the file you put forward.
This guide explains what multi-risk home insurance policies actually provide for, which items of damage are worth declaring, how to document the loss before repairing anything, and at what point pest control becomes a condition of being paid out.

What rodents really damage in a house
Before talking insurance, you need to know what you're going to be putting a figure on. A brown rat (Rattus norvegicus) or a house mouse (Mus musculus) gnaws constantly: its incisors grow continuously, by several millimetres a week, and it has to wear them down. This isn't feeding behaviour, it's a physiological need. Hence damage that has nothing at all to do with food.
The most frequent items, in the order in which we see them on site:
- Loft insulation. Glass wool or blown cellulose fibre is hollowed out into tunnels, compacted, and soiled with urine and droppings. Once compressed, it loses much of its thermal performance, and the smell lingers. Over 60 m² of loft space, a full replacement (removing the soiled material, disinfecting, re-blowing) routinely runs into thousands of euros.
- Electrical cables. The PVC sheathing is gnawed right down to the copper. The result: unexplained trips, dead sockets, hot spots and, in the worst case, the start of a fire. Communication cables (coax, fibre, RJ45) and solar panel cables on the roof are particularly exposed.
- Ducting and conduits. Punctured ventilation ducting, flexible heating ducts, corrugated conduit, PEX plumbing pipes — a gnawed PEX pipe means a water leak, and at that point you're into a different area of cover.
- Vehicles. Wiring harnesses, hoses, soundproofing foam under the bonnet. A car parked for long periods in a garage or under a carport near a compost bin is a classic target.
- Furniture, textiles and stored goods. Archive boxes, stored clothing, foodstuffs, mattresses in the cellar.
The basic rule: wear and tear is not an insured loss
Most home insurance policies distinguish between two things: accidental, sudden events (fire, water damage, storm, theft, broken glass) and gradual damage linked to poor maintenance. Rodents almost always fall into the second category.
In practice, most policies contain an exclusion clause worded roughly as follows: "damage caused by insects, worms, rodents and vermin is excluded, as is damage resulting from a failure to maintain the property". You'll find it in the general terms and conditions, in the chapter on exclusions common to all cover — read it word for word, because the wording varies from one insurer to the next, and some mutual insurers remain more flexible than others.
Key point: it isn't the rodent's bite that gets paid out, it's the accidental damage it causes, when that damage falls within cover you have taken out.
The three routes in that do work
1. Fire cover. If a gnawed cable causes a short circuit and then a fire, the fire is an insured event. The resulting damage (roof timbers, insulation, smoke, fire brigade intervention) is covered, even though the cause was a rodent. This is the most solidly established case law, and loss adjusters know it.
2. Water damage cover. A PEX pipe or a flexible hose punctured by a rat causes a leak. Water damage to floors, partition walls, ceilings and furniture then falls under water damage cover. Note: repairing the pipe itself is often excluded (that's the cause, not the damage), but leak detection and the restoration of decorative finishes are frequently covered.
3. Electrical damage cover. Many policies include a "damage to electrical appliances" extension covering appliances destroyed by power surges, short circuits or overheating. An internet router, a heat pump or an automatic gate burnt out by a gnawed harness can fall within this, subject to a cap and an excess.
Conversely, what is almost always refused: replacing soiled insulation, the cost of pest control, cleaning up droppings, droppings in the larder, clothes gnawed in the cellar.
The point that changes everything: proof of maintenance
When a claim goes through, it's rarely thanks to a brilliant legal argument: it's because the policyholder has shown that they didn't let the situation take hold. The insurer is looking for a failure to maintain. If you provide proof to the contrary, you change the nature of the discussion.
What works in your favour:
- a pest control invoice dated before or immediately after the discovery, with a dated intervention report, the location of bait stations and a record of the signs found;
- a quote or invoice for proofing work (mesh, flashing, mortar, sheet metal) showing that the entry points have been dealt with;
- time-stamped before/after photos;
- an annual inspection contract if you have one, or a visit from a roofer who flagged up an entry point.
What works against you: a loft that hasn't been looked at in ten years, a pile of rubble against the wall, an open compost bin two metres from the house, split bags of seed in the garage.
Building the file: the method, step by step
Step 1 — Don't repair anything straight away (except in an emergency)
This is the costliest mistake. Once the insulation has been taken away and the cable replaced, there's nothing left to inspect. Make things safe (switch off the circuit concerned, turn off the water) but keep the damaged items: the section of gnawed cable, the piece of punctured ducting, a sample of soiled insulation in a sealed bag. Loss adjusters work from physical evidence, not from accounts.
Step 2 — Photograph everything, properly
You need light and a sense of scale. A rechargeable head torch leaves both hands free to hold the camera in a loft, and a reference object (ruler, coin) in the frame lets the adjuster judge dimensions. Take wide shots (showing where you are in the house) and then close-ups (the damage itself). If the loft is inaccessible or very low, an endoscopic inspection camera lets you document a duct run or a floor void without dismantling everything.
Step 3 — Declare within the deadline
The standard deadline is five working days after discovering the loss for a conventional home insurance claim (two working days for theft). These deadlines are set out in your general terms and conditions, and they are real: a late declaration can lead to loss of cover if the insurer can prove it suffered a prejudice. Declare through the usual channel, then confirm in writing (recorded delivery letter or email with read receipt), listing:
- the date of discovery and the circumstances;
- the exact nature of the damage, item by item;
- the cover you are relying on (fire, water damage, electrical damage);
- a list of the enclosures.
Step 4 — Price it up with separate quotes
A single, all-in quote for "putting things right after rodents" is the surest way to get everything refused. Have separate quotes drawn up: an electrician for the circuit work, a plumber for the leak, an insulation firm for the loft, a disinfection company for the cleaning. The insurer will pay out on the lines that fall within cover and set the others aside — which, from your point of view, is always better than a blanket refusal.
Step 5 — Prepare for the loss adjuster's visit
The adjuster comes to establish the cause and put a figure on it. Have to hand: the pest control report, the quotes, the photos, the items you've kept, and the purchase invoices for the equipment destroyed. If their report concludes that an exclusion applies and you disagree, you can commission a second opinion at your own expense (sometimes partly covered under legal expenses cover), then refer the matter to the insurer's complaints department, and then to La Médiation de l'Assurance (mediation-assurance.org), which is free and can be approached after an unsatisfactory reply.
Special cases worth knowing in the Val-de-Marne
Tenant or owner? The tenant insures their contents and their liability; the owner insures the building. If the damage affects the insulation and roof timbers of a rented house, it's the owner's insurance that is involved. And the question of who has to pay for pest control is settled first and foremost on the basis of the tenancy agreement and decent-housing rules, not on the basis of insurance: we set this out in detail in our article on who pays for what between landlord, tenant and the management company.
Rodents coming from elsewhere. If the colony is coming from a neighbouring piece of waste ground, a building site or a public network, you may be able to pursue a claim against the responsible third party — and your insurer can in fact exercise that right of recovery. The process of recording the facts and serving formal notice is described in our guide on rats coming from the street or a neighbouring plot.
After flooding of the Marne or the Seine. A flood drives rodents out of the sewers and into cellars and ground floors. The water damage falls under flood cover (or under the natural disaster scheme if an order is published in the Journal officiel), and the resulting rodent damage should be declared in the same claim rather than separately.
The vehicle. Gnawed wiring harnesses don't fall under home insurance but under motor insurance, and almost never under third-party cover: you need comprehensive cover or a specific extension. Many insurers refuse on the basis of the "animals" exclusion. An ultrasonic rodent repeller for vehicles wired to the battery, plus a visual check under the bonnet before each winter, costs far less than a new harness.
Proofing beats a payout
Even a successful claim still means an excess, depreciation and weeks of waiting. The economics are straightforward: closing off the entry points costs a fraction of the loss.
The points to deal with on a house before the first cold snap:
| Weak point | What gets in | Solution |
|---|
| Roof outlets, verges, cat flaps | Mice, rats | Stainless steel grille or 6 mm stainless steel mesh, screwed in place, never stapled |
| Duct penetrations (heat pump, air con, fibre) | Mice | Fill with mortar + metal collar |
| Bottom of the garage door | Rats | Aluminium rodent-proof garage door seal with brush strip |
| Crawl space vents | Rats | Fixed stainless steel grille, no plastic |
| Compost bin, hen house, pet bowls | Rats | Closed bin, feed in the morning, no leftovers overnight |
A useful reminder: a mouse can get through a 6 mm hole, a brown rat through 20 mm. Silicone, expanding foam and adhesive tape won't last a season. Stainless steel, galvanised sheet and mortar will. To check you haven't missed anything, going round with a thermal camera for smartphones in the evening reveals draughts in the roof far better than a visual inspection.
For monitoring, live-capture mouse traps set in a loft or a utility room let you know whether the pressure is building again, without waiting for the bill. The use of rodenticides by private individuals, on the other hand, is tightly regulated: bait in secured stations, out of reach of children and pets, with bait and carcasses removed at the end of treatment. Where there are pets or birds of prey in the area, second-generation anticoagulants pose a real risk of secondary poisoning — ANSES regularly reiterates these limits. If the infestation is established (tunnels in the insulation, noises every night, droppings in quantity), you're beyond the scope of DIY: see our pest control services and indicative prices.
To understand why lofts concentrate this kind of damage, our article on blown insulation turned cosy nest sets out the mechanisms and the signs to look for.
What to check in your policy this evening
Take your general terms and conditions and look for these five points:
- The "rodents / vermin" exclusion clause: is it general, or limited to certain cover?
- The "electrical damage" extension: have you taken it out? With what cap and what excess?
- "Leak detection" cover: included or optional?
- Legal expenses cover: useful for a second opinion or a claim against a neighbour.
- The exact declaration deadlines.
Five minutes' reading now is worth more than finding out when the damage is done. And if you can already hear noises above the ceiling, the order of priorities is clear: identify the entry points, close them off, treat — then build your file, with the evidence in hand.
Unsure about the cause of the damage or the scale of the infestation in your home in Champigny, Saint-Maur, Créteil, Vitry or Nogent? Our technicians provide a written diagnosis you can use with your insurer: get in touch, or use the emergency line if an electrical circuit is involved.