Turning the Heating Back On in Autumn: Why Ducts, Ventilation Systems and Lofts Wake Up Pests

L'équipe AntinuisiblePro · Published on September 21, 2026 · 12 min read
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Introduction: the scratching that starts two weeks after the heating

The scenario comes round every year with calendar-like regularity. Mid-October, the night-time temperature drops below 8 °C and you fire up the boiler or the electric heaters. All is well. Then, around the first week of November, a noise begins: a dry scratching above the bathroom's suspended ceiling, or a rubbing sound inside the wall behind the living-room radiator. Always between 10 p.m. and 2 a.m. Never when you stop to listen.

The most common reaction is to assume that "something got in through the roof". Sometimes that's true, but above all it's incomplete. What has changed in the home isn't an opening: it's the thermal regime. By switching the heating on, you turn cold, inert spaces — service ducts, crawl spaces, unconverted lofts, ventilation risers — into warm, ventilated and remarkably discreet corridors. For a rodent, a cockroach or an overwintering fly, that is precisely the migration signal they've been waiting for.

This site has already covered mice in winter, cellars in apartment blocks and lofts taken over by stone martens. This article takes a different and rarely documented angle: a building's service networks as a vector of seasonal infestation. In other words, what happens inside the walls when the temperature rises by 6 °C.

Unmade bed with grey sheets in a bedroom with green-grey walls and pendant lights

Why heat triggers movement

The 10 °C threshold, the pivot of the calendar

Most domestic pests in France behave in ways that are strongly dependent on ambient temperature. The house mouse (Mus musculus) tolerates cold but spends a great deal of energy on thermoregulation: below 10 °C its metabolic cost rises sharply, and it favours cavities where the air stagnates above 15 °C. The brown rat (Rattus norvegicus) follows the same logic on a larger scale: it moves up from sewer networks into crawl spaces and the ducts of rising service columns.

Among insects the effect is even more marked. The German cockroach (Blattella germanica) only breeds properly between 25 and 32 °C; below 15 °C its development all but stops. A soil-stack duct warmed by a domestic hot water pipe offers it, in the depths of winter, a microclimate found nowhere else in the building. That is why reports of cockroaches in apartment blocks don't fall in winter: they simply move vertically.

Heating creates air movement, not just heat

A heated home is slightly depressurised relative to the outside and to unheated spaces. The extract ventilation pulls air out, the loft stays cold, and air flows from cold zones towards warm ones through every available crack. This draught carries food and damp odours right up into lofts and service ducts. For a rodent navigating by whisker and nose, it's a treasure map.

The principle to remember: you don't defend a home against pests, you defend a volume of warm air against the cold volumes surrounding it. The weak points are always at the interfaces.

The five critical interfaces in a heated home

1. Wall penetrations behind radiators

Every wet radiator is fed by two pipes passing through a floor slab or a partition wall. In buildings put up between the 1960s and the 1990s, these holes are rarely made good properly: you find an annular gap of 5 to 20 mm around the pipe, often hidden by a decorative plastic escutcheon. That gap is a direct passageway between the home and the service duct.

A mouse gets through a 6 mm opening, a juvenile rat through 20 mm, an adult cockroach through 2 mm. Decorative escutcheons seal nothing: they simply rest against the wall with no gasket.

The useful move is to remove the escutcheon, clean out the hole and fill it. Stainless steel wool for rodent-proofing remains the go-to material for this job: it resists gnawing, doesn't rust in a damp duct, and packs into irregular shapes. You then cover it with acrylic sealant or a patching mortar. Expanding polyurethane foam on its own should be avoided: rodents chew straight through it in a single night.

2. Cable and pipe penetrations in the kitchen

Under the sink, behind the dishwasher, at the back of a built-in oven: the holes made for water supply, waste pipes and electrics are the number one entry point for cockroaches in apartment blocks. The duct there is warm, damp, never cleaned, and connects to neighbouring flats.

Inspecting means taking apart the under-sink unit and shining a light into the corners. A narrow-beam torch, or even a small endoscopic inspection camera, lets you see what's going on behind a sealed unit without dismantling it — the tool has become far more affordable and reveals in ten minutes what you've been missing for years.

What to look for:

  • isolated brown specks (cockroach droppings, the size of a grain of ground pepper);
  • empty oothecae (light brown, purse-shaped 8 mm capsules);
  • the distinctive sweetish smell of a long-established infestation;
  • blackish smear marks along a pipe (rodents).

3. Ventilation vents and risers

Mechanical extract ventilation poses a specific problem. The shared extract riser passes through every floor and exits at roof level. A damaged roof-terminal mesh — a common occurrence after a few winters — opens a direct route for birds, wasps in summer, and rodents in autumn.

Typical symptom: an animal smell or a localised rubbing sound in the bathroom and WC extract vents, while nothing is visible inside the home. Conversely, a clogged extract vent and weakened airflow encourage damp in wet rooms, and therefore silverfish and booklice.

Two points to watch:

ComponentExpected checkFrequency
Roof ventilation terminalMesh intact, apertures ≤ 6 mmAnnual (autumn)
Extract ventsRemove, wash, refitTwice a year
Flexible ducting in loftsNo perforations, connections tightAnnual
Extract fan unitCleaning, free-running impellerEvery 3 years

Cleaning the vents requires no special equipment — hot soapy water and thorough drying — but roof access is a job for a professional or the managing agent.

4. Unconverted lofts and glass wool insulation

Lofts are the space most sought after by rodents in winter: the insulation provides both the heat rising from the home and an ideal nesting material. A mouse nest in blown glass wool is almost impossible to spot from the hatch: you have to move along the joists with a head torch and an FFP2 mask.

What you're looking for:

  • tunnels burrowed through the insulation, 4 to 6 cm across;
  • accumulations of droppings along the load-bearing walls;
  • stripped electrical cables — this is the real risk, not an anecdotal one;
  • urine stains that fluoresce under UV light.

The fire risk alone justifies an annual inspection. The INRS and insurers regularly point out that gnawed electrical conduit is among the identified causes of loft fires. A mouse gnaws constantly: its incisors grow by around 0.3 mm a day.

5. Crawl spaces and ducts at the base of a building

In a house built over a crawl space, the low-level ventilation (air bricks in the façade) must stay open to prevent damp, while being fitted with 5 mm stainless steel mesh. The original plastic grilles give way within a few seasons. In an apartment block, the plant room at the foot of the riser — boiler room, adjoining bin store, lift shaft — concentrates heat, waste and traffic: it's the classic starting point for rats colonising upwards.

Diagnosis: reading the noises and the signs

Identifying the species by sound

Noise heardLocationLikely species
Rapid, light scratching, scurryingPartition wall, suspended ceilingHouse mouse
Heavy noises, rolling sounds, stampedingLoft, floorsRat, edible dormouse, stone marten
Continuous, steady gnawingNear a cable or a beamRodent actively gnawing
Intermittent dull buzzingLoft, blocked-up chimneyResidual wasp nest
A brief rubbing sound, once a nightVentilation ductBird or passing rodent

Stone martens and edible dormice make noticeably heavier noises than mice and, crucially, appear at fixed times (leaving at dusk, returning before dawn). As the edible dormouse is a protected species in France, no lethal control is permitted: the solution is to seal up after they have left, outside the hibernation period.

Set up indicators before you treat

Before reaching for any product, you need to find out where they are moving. The simplest method is still tracking powder: a little flour or talc laid in a thin layer in suspect spots, then checked the next morning. The prints and the tail drag line tell you everything. You can supplement this with unbaited mechanical mouse traps placed at right angles to the wall, purely to detect movement.

For homes where activity is suspected but unproven, a motion-activated surveillance camera with night vision, pointed at the worktop or the back of the fridge, settles the question in two nights.

What to do — and in what order

Step 1: remove the resources, not the individuals

No amount of sealing will hold if food remains accessible. In practice:

  • transfer flour, pasta, rice and pet food into airtight glass jars or silicone-sealed containers;
  • empty the kitchen bin daily and fit it with a solid pedal lid;
  • don't leave bowls of water or pet biscuits on the floor overnight;
  • wipe behind and underneath the fridge, the warm, greasy zone par excellence.

This point, which ANSES stresses in its opinions on the use of biocides, determines the effectiveness of everything that follows: baiting a home that also offers an open larder means putting the product in competition with fresh food.

Step 2: seal methodically, from the top down

Deal with the roof and loft first, then the vertical ducts, then the interfaces within the home. Doing it the other way round shuts the animals inside — the worst possible outcome, producing deaths inside the walls and weeks of bad smells.

Materials that hold up: stainless steel wool, fine metal mesh, mortar, a screwed-on metal plate. Materials that don't: expanding foam alone, tape, cardboard, softwood, bare silicone.

Step 3: treat, with the right precautions

Anticoagulant rodenticides sold to the public are governed by the European biocidal products regulation (EU Regulation 528/2012) and by the authorisations issued in France following ANSES assessment. Three non-negotiable rules:

  1. always in a secured bait station, never loose;
  2. never outdoors unless necessary (risk of secondary poisoning of birds of prey, cats and hedgehogs);
  3. collect and dispose of uneaten bait at the end of treatment.

For mice, mechanical traps are often more effective and cleaner than chemical control in an occupied home. Live-capture cage traps or well-positioned classic snap traps — at right angles to the wall, trigger facing the skirting — give quick results when numbers are limited.

For cockroaches in apartment blocks, gel bait based on fipronil or indoxacarb applied as micro-dots in the corners of ducts far outperforms aerosols, which scatter the population and make the problem worse. Detailed information can be found in our guide to pest control products and in our fact sheets on professional services.

Step 4: go collective when the whole building is involved

As soon as the service network is shared — ventilation riser, soil stack, bin store — treating flat by flat simply cannot work. The managing agent must organise a simultaneous campaign across the entire riser, or even the whole building. The French Public Health Code (articles L1331-22 onwards) and the départemental sanitary regulations require the landlord to provide a dwelling free of infestation; the 2018 ELAN law strengthened this obligation for rentals. Questions of cost allocation are covered in detail in our article on pests in co-owned and rented property.

The autumn timetable in five weeks

WeekAction
Before switching the heating onLoft inspection + survey of signs
Week 1Clean ventilation vents, check low-level grilles
Week 2Seal penetrations behind radiators and under the sink
Week 3Decant into jars, reorganise food storage
Week 4Set up indicators (tracking powder, monitoring traps)
Week 5Review, targeted treatment or call in a professional

Five weekends of two hours each are enough for a standard home. That's the difference between a silent winter and an emergency call-out in January, at peak-season rates.

When to call a professional

Three situations mean you shouldn't go it alone:

  • confirmed presence of rats (as opposed to mice): colonisation almost always involves the sewer network, beyond the reach of a private individual;
  • a loft occupied by a protected species (bats, edible dormice, stone martens in certain contexts): the regulations strictly govern any intervention;
  • an apartment block with several flats affected: treatment must be simultaneous and documented.

In every other case, autumn offers a rare window: populations are still on the move, nests are not yet established, and every hole sealed in October is worth three call-outs in February.


Sources and references: ANSES (opinions on rodenticide and insecticide biocidal products), Institut national de recherche et de sécurité (INRS), the French Public Health Code, EU Regulation 528/2012 on biocidal products, Muséum national d'Histoire naturelle (protection status of the edible dormouse and bats).

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