Switching the Heating Back On: Why Service Ducts Wake Up Cockroaches in October

L'équipe AntinuisiblePro · Published on September 27, 2026 · 12 min read
Black and white photo of people holding clear and black bin bags in a street

Introduction: the pest that benefits from your comfort

There is a coincidence that pest control technicians know by heart but that almost no resident ever makes: calls about cockroaches in apartment buildings take off three to six weeks after the communal heating is switched back on. In France, this usually happens between 15 October and 15 November, depending on building regulations and the temperature thresholds chosen by managing agents. By December, callout requests for the German cockroach reach one of their two annual peaks — the other being high summer.

The reason is anything but mysterious. The German cockroach (Blattella germanica), which accounts for the vast majority of infestations in French apartment buildings, is a strictly thermophilic insect: its development speeds up markedly above 25 °C and effectively stops below 15 °C. And the service ducts of a heated building — those vertical shafts carrying hot water, cold water, waste pipes and sometimes cabling — offer exactly what it is looking for in winter: constant warmth, humidity, total darkness and an unbroken network running from the basement to the top floor.

This article is not about a miracle chemical treatment. It describes a specific place — the service duct and its surroundings — and a specific moment: the weeks that follow the boiler being fired up. The aim is to understand how cockroaches move around a building, to spot the points where they get into your home, and to know what falls to your flat and what falls to the building's management.

Black and white photo of people holding clear and black bin bags in a street

What warmth actually changes

The German cockroach's cycle speeds up

The benchmark entomological figures are consistent: at 30 °C, a female German cockroach completes the egg → adult cycle in 35 to 45 days. At 20 °C, the same cycle takes 90 to 120 days. Each egg case ("ootheca") holds 30 to 40 eggs, and a female produces four to eight of them over her lifetime.

The arithmetic consequence is brutal: in a service duct kept at 28–30 °C by a poorly insulated domestic hot water riser, a handful of individuals surviving in October becomes a population of several hundred by January. In an unheated building, that same handful would have stagnated.

The duct becomes a motorway

A typical post-war building has one to three vertical service ducts per stairwell. They are closed off by access panels on the bathroom or kitchen wall, and pierced at every floor where the pipes pass through. Those openings are rarely sealed properly: a 3 cm gap around a PVC pipe is enough for an adult to squeeze through, and a 1.5 mm crack is enough for a young nymph.

The result: your neighbour on the fourth floor can feed your second-floor kitchen without anyone crossing a landing. Technicians talk about an infested riser rather than an infested flat — and that is precisely why treating a single home almost always fails.

Key point: in an apartment building, the German cockroach hardly ever travels along corridors. It moves through the networks — ducts, electrical conduits, waste pipes, suspended ceiling voids, refuse chutes.

Other pests follow the same route

The warmth of the ducts also benefits:

  • ants (notably Lasius and the pharaoh ant, Monomorium pharaonis, which readily nests in pipe insulation);
  • silverfish and other lepismatids, which climb up damp ducts;
  • house mice, which use the same vertical openings and skirting board voids;
  • less often bed bugs, which prefer partition walls and electrical sockets but can travel through a duct shared between two adjoining bedrooms.

Spotting the entry points in your home: a 30-minute inspection

Do it now, before the heating is running at full tilt. Equip yourself with a torch for raking-light inspection — it is oblique light, not head-on light, that reveals droppings and shed skins — and a pocket mirror.

1. The service duct access panel

Usually in the bathroom or behind the toilet, sometimes in a kitchen cupboard. Open it (it is often simply screwed or clipped on).

What you are looking for:

SignWhat it means
Black specks 0.5 mm across, like ground pepperCockroach droppings — recent activity
Translucent amber shed skinsA growing population, not just passing traffic
A sweetish, slightly rancid smellEstablished infestation (aggregation pheromone)
Brown bean-shaped capsules 8 mm longEgg cases: breeding on site
Warm pipes + damaged insulationThe favourable microclimate is already in place

2. The base of the pipes passing through the duct's ceiling and floor

That is where the openings are. Run the beam along the surface of the slab: the gaps show up in contre-jour.

3. The area around the duct on the flat's side

  • Underneath and behind the sink unit (trap/wall junction);
  • skirting board behind the toilet;
  • where the washing machine hose passes through;
  • electrical boxes and switches on the partition running alongside the duct.

4. The warm spots in the kitchen

The German cockroach is after warmth + humidity + food. All three come together:

  • under and behind the fridge (condenser grille: the number one spot);
  • under the dishwasher;
  • inside the built-in oven housing;
  • in the hinges and drawer runners near the hob.

Making a diagnosis before treating

Monitoring traps, a non-negotiable step

Before buying anything active, you need to know where the problem is and how intense it is. Sticky monitoring traps laid flat and numbered with a marker give you a map of the flat within a week: one per duct, one behind the fridge, one under the sink, one under the dishwasher, one in the bathroom.

A simple reading, drawn from the integrated pest management protocols used in social housing:

Catches / trap / weekInterpretation
0No detectable activity — keep monitoring
1 to 5Early establishment or pressure from a neighbour
6 to 20Established population, treatment required
> 20, with nymphsHeavy infestation: professional + collective action

The presence of nymphs (small dark individuals with two pale stripes) is the decisive marker: it proves breeding on site, not simply passing traffic.

Cockroach or not?

Three common mix-ups:

  • German cockroach: 12–15 mm, pale beige, two dark lengthwise stripes on the pronotum, does not really fly, lives indoors all year round. This is the one in 80 to 90 % of flat infestations.
  • Oriental cockroach (Blatta orientalis): 20–25 mm, very dark brown, slow-moving, associated with cellars, basements, bin rooms and sewer networks. It comes up through the waste pipes.
  • American cockroach (Periplaneta americana): 30–40 mm, mahogany red, capable of gliding flight, mainly found in warm basements, commercial kitchens and district heating networks.

Telling them apart is not a detail: the Oriental cockroach is fought mainly by sealing waste pipes and the bin room, the German one by using bait gel inside the home.

What you can do on your own, and do well

1. Make water inaccessible

A German cockroach can survive several weeks without food, but only a few days without water. This is the most underestimated lever.

  • Wipe the sink and worktop dry before going to bed — cockroaches come out at night.
  • Fix the slightest seepage under the sink or at the washing machine connection.
  • Don't leave a draining rack loaded with wet plates.
  • Empty the saucers under plants and under the fridge.

2. Seal the passageways

This is where most of the battle is won. High-temperature acrylic sealant or fire-stop expanding foam around pipes, sanitary silicone sealant around traps, and steel wool pushed into the widest holes (insects and mice can't gnaw through it). For duct openings in the communal areas, however, do not act alone: these elements may serve a statutory fire-stopping purpose, and sealing them is the managing agent's responsibility.

Also think about fine-mesh ventilation grilles to fit over low-level kitchen and bathroom air vents: 1 mm mesh maximum, otherwise they are useless against nymphs, and never block them off completely — shutting down mechanical ventilation creates far worse damp problems.

3. Use bait gel properly

Cockroach bait gel based on fipronil, indoxacarb or imidacloprid remains the go-to tool in homes, professionals included. Its advantage: a domino effect through trophallaxis (cockroaches feed one another and eat their fellows' droppings).

The rules that make the difference between failure and success:

  • Very small dots, the size of a grain of rice, every 20 to 30 cm, not long beads;
  • as close as possible to the harbourages: hinges, drawer runners, undersides of worktops, behind the fridge, around the duct access panel;
  • never use insecticide spray alongside it: the repellent drives cockroaches out of the baited zone and scatters the population through the building. This is the most common and most costly mistake;
  • renew the dots after two to three weeks, as the gel dries out;
  • allow six to ten weeks for a clear collapse of the population, nymphs included.

Cockroach pheromone traps usefully round out the setup in monitoring zones, but they do not treat: they measure.

4. What to avoid

  • Aerosol "foggers" / automatic dispensers: they kill exposed individuals, leave the egg cases intact and scatter the rest. ANSES has repeatedly warned about the domestic exposure risks of these wide-dispersal products.
  • Ultrasonic repellents, for which no effectiveness against cockroaches has been demonstrated in the scientific literature.
  • Bicarbonate of soda, coffee grounds or bay leaves: no measurable effect on an established population.
  • Boric acid used carelessly in a family kitchen: classified as toxic for reproduction, to be ruled out as soon as there are children or pets around.

The crux of the matter: the building, not the flat

Why going it alone fails

As long as the riser is infested, your home will be recolonised. That is why social landlords and conscientious managing agents now work stairwell by stairwell, with systematic inspection of the adjoining flats (above, below, and on either side of the duct).

If you find an infestation:

  1. Report it in writing to the managing agent or landlord (email, plus a registered letter if the situation drags on), describing the signs and requesting an inspection of the riser.
  2. Ask for a coordinated treatment of the whole riser, not an isolated callout.
  3. Document everything: dated photos, trap catch counts, dates of reports.

What the legal framework says

Decree no. 2002-120 of 30 January 2002 on the characteristics of decent housing requires the absence of infestation by pests and parasites. The ELAN Act of 2018 strengthened this requirement by writing it explicitly into the definition of decent housing. The Règlement sanitaire départemental (departmental public health regulation), applicable in each department, makes the owner or the building's owners' association responsible for the upkeep of communal areas and networks, bin rooms included.

In practice:

  • an infestation present when the keys are handed over is the landlord's responsibility;
  • an infestation that spreads through the communal areas is the owners' association's responsibility, whichever flat it originated in;
  • the costs of a building-wide treatment fall within recoverable charges under decree no. 87-713 of 26 August 1987;
  • in the event of inaction, the municipal hygiene and health service (SCHS) or the ARS can be called upon.

For questions about how responsibility is split between tenant, owner and managing agent, our article on pests in shared buildings and rented homes sets out the various scenarios.

Timetable: what to do, and when

PeriodPriority action
Late September – mid-OctoberInspect the ducts and set out monitoring traps; seal the accessible openings inside the flat
Mid-October – end of NovemberCheck traps weekly; bait gel from 5 catches onwards; written report to the managing agent if nymphs are present
December – JanuaryCheck that the population is collapsing; renew the gel dots; follow up with the managing agent
February – MarchCheck the condition of the seals; inspect the bin room before temperatures rise again

Warm communal areas — bike store, bin room, boiler room, refuse chute — should be checked at least quarterly in a properly managed building. This is often the only point on which collective action produces a visible result within a single winter.

Conclusion: acting within the narrow window

Switching the heating back on is not a cause of infestation: it is an accelerator. It turns a residual, discreet population into a structural problem, and it does so in six to eight weeks, in a space no one ever opens.

The useful window for action is therefore narrow: late September to mid-November. Inspecting an access panel, a few numbered traps, a tube of sealant, a well-applied tube of gel and an email to the managing agent count for more, at this stage, than an emergency callout in February covering an entire riser.

If catches exceed around twenty per trap per week, or if you see nymphs in several rooms, the matter is beyond DIY: bring in a Certibiocide-certified professional, and insist that the assessment cover the whole riser, not just your kitchen. You will find details of our services on our services page, and a selection of tested products in the shop.

Sources: ANSES (opinions on biocidal products for domestic use); decree no. 2002-120 of 30 January 2002 on the characteristics of decent housing; law no. 2018-1021 of 23 November 2018 (ELAN); decree no. 87-713 of 26 August 1987 on recoverable charges; Règlements sanitaires départementaux; French Ministry of Health, factsheets on cockroaches and housing sanitation.

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